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Sunday, December 2, 2018 at 10:00 AM CST

Tradition & Innovation

Sale 5000 Lot 23

James H. Winn (1866-1940)
pendant necklace with original matching chain
Chicago, Illinois
silver-gilt, coral
etched signature
Secessionist/Jugendstil influenced design
pendant: 1 9/16"w x 2 3/8"h; chain: 18 1/4"l

Provenance:
The Paul and Terry Somerson Collection of 20th & 21st Century Metalwork and Jewelry

Literature:
Evon, Darcy L., Hand Wrought Arts & Crafts Metalwork & Jewelry: 1890-1940, Schiffer Publishing, 2013, p. 46 (illustrated)
Berberian, Rosalie, Creating Beauty: Jewelry and Enamels of the American Arts & Crafts Movement,
Schiffer Publishing, 2019, p. 104 (illustrated)

Catalog Note:
"The necklace shows another side of Winn's work. It has a strong Jugendstil-inspired form, and pronounced but extremely fine hammering. Gold and coral are an elegant and understated combination, and here they have a soft, luminous effect. The coral glows from the almost faceted hammer marks on the gold around it.

The main pendant body is composed of stylized leaf forms, with heavily hand-worked surfaces, chased and pierced geometric details, two applied coral beads at the top ("eyes"), and an internal tear-shaped coral drop at the bottom. The main pendant is suspended from a smaller plaque with curved edges and worked surfaces with pierced details, centering an applied coral bead. These are connected with small hooks to a delicate chain with five small gold and coral pierced plaques spaced along its length.

While the chain is long enough (18-1/4") to fit over someone's head, the hooks can be removed from small loops for fastening and unfastening while in front of the wearer. The pendant and the plaque from which it hangs are fairly large — 2 3/8"h and 1 9/16"w — but the slender shape, concave edges, fine hammering, and curving cutouts make it seem delicate and light. Winn also animates the piece by providing articulation between the two main pendant parts and a movable drop inside the pendant, both of which let the piece sway softly as the wearer moves."

—Paul Somerson

Estimate $6,000-8,000

Sold for $7,500